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RB Equestrian
Tips for horseriders
Fitting Rugs Fitting Saddles
Fitting Rugs
Rugs should be comfortable for the horse. It is important that they are a good fit around the neck and do not rub the horse; it may be necessary to use a bib to avoid chafing on the shoulder and breast. Similarly, the withers should be protected from rubbing and many rugs have padding at the top of the neck for this purpose.
A good supplier will allow you to try out a rug before you make your decision to buy. However, bear in mind that the saddlery has to sell any rug which you return and you should ensure that your horse is clean before trying it on - it is best to cover the horse with a sheet or blanket before attempting to fit the rug. You should know the size of rug required before visiting the saddlery as guesses invariably turn out to be wrong, so necessitating a return visit.
Rugs are measured from the centre of the breast to a line vertical to the base of the tail (dock) as shown in the diagram above. Rugs are still manufactured to imperial measurements, in three inch increments, e.g. 6'6", 6'9", 7'0". Go for the closest size, but remember that it is important that rugs are not so long as to prevent the horse from lifting its tail. Similarly, surcingles should be loosely fastened to ensure that the horse remains comfortable.
Rugs are a lot more sophisticated then they used to be, but no rug will keep a horse 100% dry and neither is it 100% tear-proof, particularly if you have barbed wire or thorns in your paddock. It is important that natural fibre New Zealand rugs are broken in properly - they don't become leak-proof until they have been exposed to wet weather a few times, so please bear this in mind before taking a leaking rug back to the shop. Also, some rugs made from man-made materials can cause condensation on the horses back, which can be mistaken for a leaking rug.
Don't put a new rug on your horse, turn him out, and leave him. He has to become used to it and should be watched to ensure that he is comfortable with it, even if he has been wearing rugs all his life. If a horse isn't happy in a rug he can get it off - he does this by snagging it on a fence post or stable fitting, tearing the straps from the rug material and causing the rug to flap about. The horse will chase around attempting to get away from the flapping monster on its back until it is dislodged, or he trips himself up when he becomes entangled in the loose straps or the enveloping rug. Invariably the shreds will end up back at the saddlery with the comment that it is "not up to the job and can I have my money back please". It's worth bearing in mind also, that in shared paddocks some horses don't like other horses wearing rugs and will assist in their removal.
Because rugs are not totally waterproof it is advisable to have at least two outdoor rugs - well, as we sell the things we would say that wouldn't we? Having a spare allows you to dry out a damp rug, and also to effect repairs. Many of our customers buy a top-of-the-range New Zealand and also a cheaper rug which they can use while the main one is being serviced. Some buy two cheaper rugs and alternate them regularly. Whatever you do, the key factor is to ensure that your horse is warm, dry and comfortable.
LEG STRAPS - a source of continual debate:
Wisdom handed down through the ages stipulates that the leg straps of a rug should be looped to prevent chafing. In fact, looped straps can interfere with the self-righting properties of some rugs and you should always ask your rug supplier whether the straps of the rug you are buying should be looped or not. As a general rule the straps of self-righting rugs should not be looped while the straps of surcingled rugs should be looped; HOWEVER, different manufacturers have different recommendations and you should always follow the specific instructions for the make of rug that you have. Unfortunately, most rugs don't have written instructions, so ask your saddler; and if they don't know get them to ask the manufacturer.
Finally, buying rugs can be a problematical and expensive business, so do you really need to do it? Many native and other hardy breeds grow their own hairy rugs and it is not always necessary to supplement nature. It all depends on the circumstances, of course, and some people just like to pamper their horses. If you're not a big softy, check out what the recommendations are for your breed and maybe save yourself a bit of money.
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Fitting Saddles
The seat of the problem
If your horse isn't responding to the bit, check his saddle.
If your horse is playing up and being unruly, check his saddle.
If your horse is doing anything out of character, check his saddle.
Check your saddle every time you put it on. A quick examination to ensure that there are no lumps or bumps in the panel, that there are sufficient clearances and that it is not pinching, will help to avoid the reluctance to go forward or the sudden buck, and help prevent the gradual development of back problems in your horse. Many “bitting problems” can be cured by the fitting of a different saddle - if a horse is uncomfortable when he is being ridden then he will not give of his best.
There is one simple rule for fitting saddles - both the horse and the rider must be comfortable. It should be simple to ensure that the rider is comfortable but not so easy to ensure that the horse is. When I fit saddles I go through a standard routine, which if followed will guarantee that no harm will come to the horse from bad fitting. It isn't difficult, but it can take some time, but remember that patience will be rewarded with a happy and more biddable horse. Before describing the process I should point out that years of experience with fitting saddles on club, school and family horses has demonstrated that there are very few occasions when a narrow saddle is suitable. Medium or wide saddles are by far the norm and, if you think a narrow saddle is a good fit, make really certain that the saddle is not pinching the withers. THERE IS NO SADDLE THAT WILL FIT EVERY HORSE!!!
Saddle fitting requires experience in order to ensure that no damage is caused to the horse. There are many very good fitters in the United Kingdom but if you don't know the competence of the person who is doing your fitting then it is wise to ensure that they have the Society of Master Saddlers saddle fitting qualification. This is awarded only to persons who are experienced saddle fitters who have undergone advanced training from saddlers, professional horsepersons, and veterinary surgeons, and who have passed searching theoretical and practical examinations. Graduates are allowed to describe themselves as SMS Qualified Saddle Fitter. A list of qualified fitters is available from the Society of Master Saddlers
The fitting process
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1.
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Wherever possible, always fit saddles in a schooling area with no other horses around.
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2.
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Check that the saddle is sound and that the panels are smooth and even.
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3.
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Put on the horse's bridle and get somebody to lead him, unsaddled, away and towards you, in both walk and trot. Observe his gait and make a mental note of any peculiarities. If possible, it is a good idea to shoot a 30 second video of this phase. Obviously, if the horse is lame or showing any discomfort during this stage then stop immediately and get professional veterinary assistance.
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4.
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Put the saddle on the horse's back, placing it just above the withers and then sliding it back into position. Don't use a numnah or saddle pad.
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5.
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Ensure that,
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a. the flaps do not interfere with the movement of the horse's shoulder;
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b. the saddle is located above the horse's ribs and the back of the panel does not bear upon his loins (behind his last rib);
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c. the arch of the tree does not pinch the withers and does not rest upon the top of the withers;
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d. the panels bear evenly on the horse's back for the length of the saddle.
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6.
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Look down between the saddle and the horse's back and ensure that the spine is not being pinched. You should see daylight along the length of the saddle.
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7.
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Attach the girth (I prefer to use the first and third straps to minimise rocking, although this might be changed to reduce saddle movement back or forth) and get the rider to mount. You should be able to get your fingers easily between the arch of the saddle and the horse's withers when the horse is moving and when the rider stands in the stirrups. Also check that the rear of the saddle is well clear of the horse's spine with the rider seated. Compare the horse's gait to its unsaddled gait (this is where the video recording comes in handy); if there is a major difference then the saddle is uncomfortable for the horse and must not be used. Get another saddle and return to step 2.
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8.
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Now observe the mounted horse in walk, trot and canter and ensure that the saddle does not move excessively, and most importantly, that the horse shows no sign of distress. The saddle should be level and the rider should be comfortable. The unsaddled and ridden gaits should be essentially identical.
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Difficulties often arise with saddles moving from side to side, or slipping; usually because of podgy horses or flat-backed horses (tabletops). Often adjustment of the flocking can alleviate these difficulties but it is best to get the advice of a saddler or someone who has experience in fitting saddles. In any case, saddles should be checked frequently in order to ensure that they do not need restuffing. A new saddle will probably need its flocking adjusted within 3 months of fitting. I always make a record of a horse's shape when I fit a saddle so that I can compare how it has changed if it becomes necessary to refit it. Do this with the aid of a draughtman's curve which is a lead-filled length of plastic tubing about 18" long, and which can be bought from any office supplies shop. Mould the plastic over the withers, just behind the shoulders where the arch of the saddle would normally be (on a non-cutback saddle) and then trace the shape onto a piece of A4 paper. Repeat this for the horse's back about 8 inches back from the previous measurement and trace it onto the same piece of paper. I then add the horse's name, height, colour, date and any other information that might be useful as a record. Ideally, this procedure should be repeated when it becomes necessary to reflock, and the saddler should use this as a template. Remember, also that horses change shape cyclically through the year, and also as they get older, so the same saddle may not last the lifetime of the horse.
Checking for soundness of saddles
The vast majority of riders know that to ride on a saddle which has a broken tree is the height of irresponsibility. Good riders also know to check that the tree is not twisted. Both faults can cause severe back damage to the horse as well as making him unresponsive. By getting into the habit of regularly checking the saddle for soundness riders are being kind to their horse.
Broken and twisted trees can occur through long term wear and tear, or from sudden impacts. Twisting is exacerbated by the rider who mounts from the ground by pulling on the cantle with the reinless hand rather than placing this hand on the waist of the saddle. Sometimes circumstances dictate that mounting from the ground is unavoidable, but in general it's better to use a leg-up or a mounting block. If you do mount from the ground then it's a good idea to alternate both sides of the horse.
Check for a twisted tree by placing the saddle on a fence. Ensure that the two sides of the panel are level at the front and then check that the panel bearers are level at the back. If one looks higher than the other then have a saddler look at it. Ensure that you line up the panel at the front rather than the skirt nails, as these are often not level.
Check for a broken tree by resting the pommel (arch) against your stomach and pulling back on the cantle with both hands. If there is movement across the seat and no tendency to spring back then the tree may be damaged. Get advice from your saddler before using the saddle.
Secondly, hold the cantle against your stomach, and grasp both sides of the arch. Try to push your hands together against the resistance of the arch, and then try to pull them apart. If this causes movement of the arch or you hear metallic sounds then again get advice from a saddler before using the saddle. Don't be afraid to use all your strength with these tests; if the saddle is sound then you won't harm it, but if it is damaged or weakened then you will need to replace it anyway........ if it breaks, it was bad.
Finally, check that the girth straps are sound. They should be firmly stitched to the webbing and should not be cracked. Damaged or worn straps should be replaced immediately.
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